Berlusconi - A report card on his trials & tribulations

School may be out for the summer, but I thought I'd give you a Report Card on the judiciary woes that have our favorite Prime Minister currently "working" (albeit only a few hours a week) at a Senior Citizen Home as retribution for one of his many prickly peccadillos.   
Just in case anyone wants to keep track:

1 - Found GUILTY for the Mediaset Tax Fraud case, in which he was sentenced to 4 years in prison, later reduced to 1 year for a law to reduce jail overcrowding, reduced to community service since he is now over 70 years old.  
He was also banned from public office for 5 years, but has managed to get that 'under review' as well.
1 - ABSOLVED due to his party changing the law so it would no longer be illegal
2 - Cases DROPPED due to a govt amnesty (surprise, surprise)
3 - Cases DROPPED - usually for statute of limitations.  To many, this is nothing short of incredible. In Italian trials, the clock keeps ticking even once you're on trial, so...your smooth lawyers can stall and stall and Whoa, really?! I'm off because we didn't try my case in time? Funny how that works. 
7 - Cases going to TRIAL

So, where does the "most persecuted man in history" stand on his many trials today?

• RUBY RUBACUORE - the heart stealer who got him 7 years for sex with a minor - he is now getting it up in appeals.
• RUBY TER - some of Berlusconi's illustrious Brat & Rat Pack got jail terms for basically running a prostitution ring at Silvio's playpen in Arcore (Sardinia), Berlusconi is going to be tried on corrupting witnesses, since he was paying his call girls - err... friends - nice stipends the whole time leading up to and during the trial [€5M to Ruby and 2500/month to others].
• BARI ESCORT - more girl problems for Silvio from top to bottom of the Boot. Again, abetting prostitution and then lying about it.
• BUYING VOTES - In Naples he's on trial for "convincing" a certain Senator (Sergio De Gregorio, who has confessed) to switch parties during a crucial vote; thereby impeding the govt
• LODO MONDADORI - This coming October, Berlusconi is being asked to pay further damages to his biggest competitor, a certain De Benedetti to whom he was already forced to pay 494 Million euro. They're asking for about 90M more for the legal fees and interest payments.
• DIVORCE - Ahhh yes, sometimes, when you're caught once too often with your pants down and with minors no less, your wife might say, Basta! Enough is Enough.  So now, the courts need to come up with a tidy alimony payment for her own public embarrassment and with the richest man in Italy.

* A terrific synopsis by the BBC on these cases here
You can find more on my favorite Italian, at The Silvio Show here

Naples, North Dakota

A few years back, I penned a few posts on why I thought Tennessee was a lot like Italy.  And that was before the church goin', God-fearin' rich lawyer who owned Linguality Inc., decided not to pay me $22,000 -- something that most freelancers in Italy experience on a daily basis.  Call it job (in)security.  But, the longer I live in Italy, the more I realize that the USA is playing a nice game of catchup-after all, the USA is an even older democracy than Italy's united states.  And I don't mean just on the soccer field.
After an Italian TV show uncovered the truth behind Italy's Terra dei Fuochi - the Land of Fires surrounding Italy's most populated city, Naples, it seems our new Prime Minister is sending troops to the Triangle of Death to try and do away with the illegal toxic waste dumps that were burning in broad daylight for decades.  
Meanwhile, half way 'round the world, in North Dakota, another TV Report - this time revealed on The Rachel Maddow Show - has uncovered illegal radioactive waste dumps - fortunately, in very remote areas, but nonetheless on Indian reservations and in an abandoned gas station no less -- But this time, we even know who the culprit is.  The gas & oil companies.  

AP Photo from N Dakota Health Dept
showing the abandoned gas station
now stuffed with radioactive filters from fracking & drilling for oil

Naples, Italy should be so lucky that their plight comes from the plucky side of oil drilling. But still, North Dakota's ridiculous policy of charging $1000 / bag for disposal, has brought this on themselves.  So, who knows where the next glow-in-the dark dump will be uncovered? And, will we be sending in the troops to do away with it?

For more on the toxic waste dump, here's an article on the illegal oil waste field in the Washington Times.  

Other links above in color are all live

Italy: The Best of 2013

Habitual readers of my blog will know that for years, I have posted a Tante Belle Cose monthly roundup of some of the terrific things that happened in and around Italy.  My readers are so cynical, that people barely glanced at the listings. And while there are millions of articles, blog posts, videos, files postings on all that is great with Italy, those who know me, see that I take a rather - errrr - 'different' approach. 
But, in the spirit of the festive season, and in the hopes that you, dear readers will actually for once read 'til the end, here is my year-end review of some terrific or zany things that happened in 2013 Bell'Italia:

• Jan/The Gemelli Hospital - A young boy's heart valve operation was entrusted to the head of the cardiac unit at this Vatican-run hospital; famous for working on Popes but even more famous for the miracles performed on children. I panicked when the Chief Cardiologist was under 40.  I mean, this is a country in which many kids are still (supposedly) hitting the books in their 30s. Instead, he is one of many of the renowned medical professionals operating in this country.  And while many more skilled and highly trained researchers, scientists, physicians have left for greener pastures, he (and his wife) remain the face of what Italy could be if the younger generation was given half the chance.

  

  from the UK's Telegraph

• Feb/Pope Francis - Anyone who reads my blog or my twitter feed knows I am no fan of religious institutions of any cloth. The abject hold over the hypocrite politicians by the Vatican State - a theocratic society where women are not allowed in any real power - is outrageous. But I love this Pope.  Since his election, taking real action against the corruption in his own house, the plague of pedophiles in his midst and with discourses that could be translated easily to much of Italian society, well, I hope someone is listening.  Heck-he even told his own clergy that their homilies were boring.  Add to that an American woman at the helm of his finance committee, and his selfie, let's hope we can all surf this tsunami of change.

• Mar/Berlusconi Convicted - Finally, justice was served, albeit lukewarm (he's still not served a day) after the courts have been trying to try him for years. He was found guilty of wiretapping a political rival. Incredibly, in Italy, the statute of limitations does not stop once court proceedings have been initiated. So Silvio's crack legal team just practices delaying tactics until the clock runs out.  For a pretty thorough FAQs of Silvio's trials, just click here. And, don't forget to drop in on my dedicated Silvio Show Page above!  As most commenters would remark, in any other country he'd have been long gone from politics.

• Apr/New Government Elected - While not much would change with a left-leaning government, at least we no longer had to live down the peccadilloes of our previous Prime Minister. It was liberating. Even more liberating was the party of defiance, under the helm of comedian & general disruptive force, Beppe Grillo, came to the fore in huge numbers. The media (wholly controlled by politicians) continues to dismiss him and his members, but let's face it.  In a country of self-professed sheep - I call them lemmings - it's heartening to see at least one person call out the politicians for the ongoing rape of their country.

• May/Life & Death in Pompeii - While the actual walls of places in Pompeii have been crumbling before our eyes, while Vesuvius still boils under the previously scorched earth, and while city officials decide - despite all indications to the contrary - that it's okay for people to dwell on its slopes, the world got treated to another mega-exhibition on this fabled place; the way exhibitions were intended - by the British Museum.  The show brought much of the story and traditions to life through the unique objects, including a magnificent table, never seen in public.  You can still pick through the timelines, the stories, the cult of Bacchus, you name it on their slick website.  Carpe Diem!  Here's the Eruption Timeline

• June/The Supermoon - It's hard to pick the most amazing shots of the Supermoon with Italy as it's front drop.  Just 'Google It' and stargaze for yourself.  

• July/Italy's first astronaut in space - My head still in the stars, with the arrival of the 203rd astronaut into outer space continues to astound us with his shots of the world at large (very large) and his twitter feed (@astro_luca) Thankfully, we did not lose him in late July when his helmet filled with water during his spacewalk.  More here.

An Italian astronaut in space always makes me giggle. That's due to the old yarn about the Pan-World Space Mission looking for the next astronaut to send to Mars.  They interview the best candidates from every viable nation.  In the final round, the American says he'll do it for $1M -leaving behind his wife & family for 3 yrs.  The Russian cosmonaut says he'll do it for $2M. The Italian waltzes into the interview, and declares that he'll do it for $3M.
The interviewer is astounded.  "What do you mean, these other countries have the finest programs on earth!" he exclaims.  The Italian leans over and says, "Don't you understand? A million for-a you, a million for me -- and dee American goes to Mars!"

• Aug/New places in Italy - I got to spend my August with my sister/niece & nephews on Italy's Adriatic coast.  And, the best part yet, was seeing places I've never been to before!  Of course, no trip is complete without paying a visit to my favorite town in all of Italy, Ascoli Piceno (not least for their olive ascolane, deep-fried stuffed olives washed down with cool white wine).  But I was pleasantly surprised by the towns above Pescara, the churches that were out of this world, and the markets actually included real Italian-made products.  Walks near the Gran Sasso made it all the more spectacular, and provided a welcome breath of fresh air from the August heat.

• Sept/Raising the Concordia - While none of us can get over the 'Hands in the cookie jar' defense of the indefensible Captain Coward of the Concordia, I was glued to its raising.  It was a feat of engineering, and while it was a multinational endeavor, the Italians had much to be proud of.  Certainly, spending all that money on this derelict ship just to send it for demolition left some wondering where our priorities were.  After all, hospitals are being closed all around us, schools are crumbling, and all this money is washed away at sea [granted, the operation did save the fragile environment underneath the ship.]  But compared to the outrageous purchase of dozens of fighter planes for a country that can't afford toilet paper for its students, well...it's hard to understand.  Nonetheless, I was glued to the screen, if for no other reason than accident porn.  

This is gonna be a tough one to set straight
From the inimitable genius of Gianni Falcone www.gianfalco.it 

More takes on the year of the Concordia conundrum:

Captain Coward 

Concordia's Deep Throat 

• Oct/Night at the Museum - Each October, we're treated to free admission & festivities throughout the country.  But in reality, these aren't the only times you can get into the most beautiful places on earth for a song.  There is a week each May as well, free nites on your birthday, and  bank collections and FAI heritage trust sites often open for free.  And all winter, there are free visits to the show in Rome of Augustus.

• Nov/ASRoma Football/Soccer - Fans saw the Rome team came back from years of mediocrity (despite their 37 yr old Captain's finesse on the field) to have a fleeting chance at no. 01.  The games have all been exciting, and there's more to come in January!  With an updated website - in English, no less - I follow a lot of the English football commentary for my play by plays, even on twitter.  It's great to see.  In November, we also saw the relaunch of Naples' Città della Scienza after being burnt to the ground by someone - most likely interested in developing the area, and not kids' brains.  [Full disclosure: We opened with one of the shows I represent from the USA, Brain: The World inside your head].

• Dec/Londinium - After leaving behind: the fab book event in which I introduced readers to many expat authors living in Italy (I'll be adding even more to the titles on my Book Page Tab above), the drab Christmas tree mounted in Rome's Piazza Venezia (and crucified on twitter), the mad grab of politicians for more money & perks as they force most of Italy into poverty and cripple companies, I saw that sometimes, things are the same all over.  Attending the terrific show of Fascinating Aida, we found that Brits are threatened by immigration, school teachers can't make a living wage, the bathrooms at London's Science Center, airports & other public places don't flush (but they do have toilet paper!), and the price of transportation is keeping people away - from everything and everyone else.  As they say in Italy, "Tutto il mondo è un paese - The whole world is just a village".

Buone Feste! To the habitual Readers of my blog, to all my peeps, and to my occasional voyeurs and (sadly, even fewer) occasional commenters!  See you in 2014.

Many live links throughout the post.

Wow! Genova's New Science Center uses its Brain

This last week I attended the inauguration* of a new, awesome attraction in Italy in a place that already brings millions of visitors to wind their tiny medieval streets: Wow! Genova's Science Expo Center a place where kids of all ages can explore their world. The opening took place in a gorgeous refab warehouse in the Porto Antico [Ancient Port], just a meatball's throw from the terrific Aquarium.  Revamped years ago, the Porto Antico now includes other fun venues including a new museum, MuMa, a pirate ship & submarine, an outdoor ice rink and even a spanking new Eataly. 
Due south, along the same coast and in the same week, we all bore witness to the devastating fire that reduced the Naples Science Center [Città di Scienza] to ashes.  I often remark that Italy is nothing if not a country of contradictions; These two events revealed just how brutal two sides of the same coin can actually be.  Both committees knew full-well that a science center can inspire, thrill or even challenge people of all ages [like me trying to figure out how actually to see the 3D optical illusions at Brain]. The burning down of Naples, like the burning of Venice's La Fenice opera house or the bombing of San Giovanni Basilica in Rome is as tragic as the Taliban's taking out those Buddhas of Bamiyan.

- Picture from La Stampa.it -

But stepping off the expansive promenade of the old port of Genova and into the Wow! complex, reminded me just what it is that the politicians in Italy have long forgotten: The extent of the talent and unbridled potential of so many of its citizens, the brains, capacity and audacity of so many, and how incredible things would be in Italy, if the feudal lords would just get their greasy palms, hand-outs and abject mediocrity out of the way.  It can be done: just take a look at Italy's fashion houses from Armani to Benetton, to Ferraro, Illy Caffè or Luxottica that are the envy of the world.  These companies prove that when Italians are left to their own devices without the interference of the political class, well, Wow! 
Come to think of it, almost every struggling company from Alitalia, FIAT, to the big utilities & defense contractors, from the Post Office to the plethora of City "services", even the oldest bank in the world, Monte dei Paschi, once the personal piggy bank of the Medicis (and we've seen all the politicians thereafter), are all bastions of political patronage, payoffs and nepotism in the extreme.  Political hacks consider these and smaller off-shoots for their own personal festivities where one plays a backwards musical chairs--the chairs just keep getting added; not for hard-working, honest employees, but for an army of unqualified yes-men (and they're all men), lovers, relatives and incapable friends.  Filling up fake companies and real ones in exchange for votes, inexperienced mediocre cretins pretend to do managerial jobs while the guys at the top siphon the public funds.  The higher up you go, the more place holders (prestanomi) you'll find.  Million euro stipends are the order of the day, to keep the palms greased and the currency pushed into envelopes.  Middle managers and workers barely eke out a living with their meagre pay--and it is only thanks to them (and the legions of slave workers) that keeps the company afloat at all.  
Back in Genova, I had originally pitched the idea for a science center to an astute businessman.  He in turn, cobbled together more private business people to consider the concept.  We went to the Port Authority to check out the space.  It was perfect.  A contract could be signed.  The only delay was when the City, finding themselves slightly sidelined, lobbied a few faux regulations their way--the equivalent of making sure they had stables for unicorns handy, just in case one turns up.  Once again, instead of rejoicing the new tenants of a half-abandoned building, new life and new money for the City coffers, the civil servants did what they could to first foil the deal.  Thankfully, they have seen the light.  
It reminded me of the building of The Venetian hotel in Las Vegas.  Multi-billionaire Adelson showed up in Merano with bucketfuls of cash and took back home marble specialists, architects, even buying up an exclusive textile company so his hotel would have a real Venetian feel in their fabrics.  Venice Mayor Cacciari was apoplectic.  How could this rich, obnoxious American just come here and buy up our artisans?  And not ask for our blessing first?  How could he refuse to pay homage first with the Doge himself?  He tried suing Adelson for patent infringement of the image of Venice.  He was made a laughing stock when the Mayor of Paris, darting across the Atlantic to the opening of Paris Paris for the ribbon cutting, chimed in that it was an honor to see the Eiffel Tower recreated in Sin City.  And we all know what the Parisians think of Americans.  Adelson laughed all the way to the bank.
Regardless, from that first meeting in August 2011, the Science Center was opened in record time, by anyone's standards.  Wow! had gone into high speed, awarding contracts to capable architects, graphics firms, ad agencies, technicians and suppliers of every color.  Compare this with the re-opening of the State Museum, the Borghese Gallery in the '90s.  Fourteen years under "restoration" under various Ministers until Walter Veltroni, then Minister of Culture said, Basta!  He picked a date and it opened to the public to great acclaim.  Ahhh...you say...but he is a politician!  So effective was he, his party threw him out.
Wow! opened like clockwork--and opening up with it, jobs to a group of exceptional young people, all college graduates, each and every one oozing passion for science from every pore.  Families, school kids, the city itself will all reap the benefits of our work there.  And who knows?  Perhaps one day one child will become the next Rita Levi-Montalcini or Marisa Bellisario.  The surrounding attractions will benefit as well, as will the gorgeous palaces, museums, and other cultural events that Genova offers on a regular basis.  It is no accident that Genova was voted European Capital of Culture back in 2004.
As I like to quip, having long ago co-opted someone's piquant quote, Italy works despite its government, not because of it.  If we could only get the politicians to keep their noses (and their grubby hands) out of private enterprise, we could truly light this country on fire.

* [Full disclosure-I represent the opening exhibition and I refuse to refer to Genoa, Turin & Milan as cities in Italy-and have a hard time using Florence as well].

Love Letter from lovely Naples

On September 19th, Naples breaks out the bottles and rejoices -- it's the Feast Day of their Patron Saint, San Gennaro.  The bottles, of course, are the tiny ampules containing his blood which liquefy every so often, and only when the Saint deems it perspicacious.  


I recently had occasion to visit the Tesoro di San Gennaro, a jewel of a museum next to Naples' Duomo (Cathedral) containing some of the world's most valuable jewels.  Each piece, commissioned by kings and commoners alike, are truly something to behold.  And while most of the 20000+ items created over the last 700 years (give or take a few) are salted away in highly protected vaults, together they demonstrate the importance of this most patron of saints beloved the world over. 

Picture from Museo San Gennaro
[The current show will be up until January 6th.]

Wandering the streets of Bella Napoli for the first time in years, was Heaven on Earth.  The shops, the doorways, the courtyards, the underground ruins, the baroque palaces, the churches on every street corner, even the decay was sublime.  It is clear why the Neapolitans place so much faith in San Gennaro...He's been watching over these places for centuries, and receives his share of riches - 'protection money' without even having to ask.  Because of him, the lava from Mount Vesuvius has stopped right at the city limits.  An earthquake left the city unscathed.  And judging by the hustle and bustle of Napoli these days, it looks like he's saved the residents from being buried in waste as well.  Forget the blood, this is nothing short of a miracle.

Arriving in Naples, the new spiffy train station is outstanding in every way.  A far cry from the days in which you had more homeless than bag handlers to wish you a hearty Benvenuto! upon arrival.  Once the expansive Piazza Garibaldi is complete out front, I can't help but think how wonderful it will be.  Just keep in mind, while you look around to catch your bearings, you'll have to watch your pocketbook as well.  

Walk up the city streets, the town has been littered with policemen, traffic cops and tourist info kiosks right, left and center.  They're all so helpful, I watched Nigerian street vendors peddle their counterfeit bags without any worry that they'd soon have to pick up their sheets and run.  The cops passed may turn a blind eye, but you can be sure they'll be keeping an eye on you.

Take a good long look at the industrious Neapolitans from the barmen serving you (yet another) unforgettable sfogliatella, to the shopkeepers, housewives, businessmen and police of both sexes and you're reminded of the famous Neopolitan presepe (manger scenes).  The clothes have changed, but you've got the same wild and wondrous scenery. 

And as for the sparkling emeralds on show right in the thick of it?  You can rest assured that when it comes to defying San Gennaro, not even the most hardened criminals want to mess with him.

Tante Belle Cose - June in Italy

The month of June kicks off the enormous amount of summer concert series, events, outside cinema, and entire tent cities offering food & drinks, literature, gifts, you name it for all those on summer strolls.  As the Italians like to say, "You have an embarrassment of choice." But there are other lesser known items in the news that give us reason for applause.

• Mario Draghi was plucked to head the European Central Bank which shows how far Italians could go if they lived in a proper meritocracy (although how he got to the upper echelons of Italy's banking system in the first place remains to be seen).

• Italy's esteemed President, Giorgio Napolitano received an honorary law degree from Oxford (I know, I know, Italy has a President??!!)

• Neopolitan police caught the guys who killed the American cruise ship passenger for his watch - putting yet another nail in the coffin in the tourism coffers of this besieged city

• Italians formed a committee requesting the return to Florence of Leonardo's Mona Lisa  [and, in a non-related incident, we were told of a quip by Italy's Minister of Culture upon meeting his counterpart in France:   

It is said we possess more art in Italy than in all of France to wit the Frenchman responded, That may be true, but you'd have even more if it weren't for Napoleon (who pillaged Italy by "purchasing" much of the contents of the Louvre)

• And the Florentines disowned themselves from the gutter cast members of Jersey Shore, filming there for the summer (good to see that the Florentines have good taste - but, how many tune into Big Brother?)

Article here in Life in Italy

• Vogue Italy showed off gorgeous Italian women in all their curvy splendor...Could it be that the age of Sofia and Anna Magnani is making a comeback? 

click on grey areas for links to full stories

Pizza Italiana -vs- New York Pies

Comedian Jon Stewart killed the other night when dissing 'The Donald' for his New York Pizza-eating etiquette...Viewers got a quick & dirty 'user's guide to pizza eating in Manhattan', with an extra topping treat of his short list of the best pizza establishments New York City has to offer, although, I'd go one more:  Artichoke - just under the hi-line at 14th & 10th Ave - pictured here.  Buonissimo.

You can view the link here (just click on live link)

But what Jon doesn't know are few facts about true pizza eating in its birthplace.   Visitors to Italy are always a bit stunned when ordering their first 'pie' - they get to eat the whole thing!  That's because, they'll soon find a pizza crust so thin (yet so totally deliziosa) you would not be faulted for thinking they had simply forgot it altogether.  [Of course, in Naples you can still find the thick-crusted as well]  But the most important trait?  Look around you - everyone's eating it - with a knife and fork!


One other surprise?  In Italy, you'll be hard-pressed to find Italian pizza-makers (although I must admit, my local trattoria still has the real McCoy - or maybe, Maccari, as the case may be...).  Like the chain in The Daily Show video, many pies are being made by Albanians - but it's the Egyptians spinning your dough by those brick ovens who are the upper crust when it comes to dishing the pies...


And, if you want a nice review on the Home of Pizza - Napoli-style, check out Carbonara's terrific posting of the pizza experience! (click here)

Italy 2010 - The Best & Worst of a Year in Review

Following is my serendipitous selection of the Good-Buono, the Bad & the Ugly-Brutto of Life in Italy 2010.  Feel free to add your own.

milano
buono      Milan’s train station grows up – and starts adding slick services & fancy stores for passengers.
brutto       You’ll have to count on those stores for your water supply…Milan has ripped out all the fountains all around town (you know, the ones from which water flows out all day & night) because people were – gasp! – taking advantage of the freely flowing H2O and using it to wash their cars, while the homeless got cleaned up.
While I’m all for not wasting water in today’s day & age, I’d like someone to please tell me that the clean water isn’t just flowing freely underneath our feet and that shelters now provide showers.

roma
buono      Rome turned into ‘Roma Capitale’ following other capital cities in their pursuit of providing more cohesive tourist services and so on under one umbrella. Add to this a number of free evenings to the major attractions throughout the year (and the Vatican museums deserve a shout out for their night openings as well – and still free on the last Sunday of each month), and the latest announcement -- you get in free on your birthday! (Trust me, I’ll be testing their meddle on the upcoming missing Leap Day & see how the ticket agents react...) 

For now, I'll hold off judgment seeing that the latest free evenings at State-run museums in Rome, were not mentioned anywhere on the Roma capitale nor rome city websites – shame on them.

Jan 1^st also marks the day that ‘no more plastic bags’ will be used by stores – large & small – even green grocer market stands.  Not exactly true, as we’ll just be using biodegradable plastic bags.  Hopefully, it will be heavily enforced by the authorities like the hugely successful anti-smoking law.  But so far, I’ve been handed regular plastic bags, but hey, it’s only a few days in…

Activists from Retake Rome finally taking the rampant & ridiculous graffiti into their own hands – and gaining the interest (perhaps by disgracing them into action) of the Mayor's office as well.  But, will they make a long-lasting impression?  Too early to tell.

brutto     January 1^st also marks the day that tourists will start paying a tourist tax, with an increase of 1 euro at all museum entrances (not to mention at the hotels) – “To pay for all the terrific services we have in mind to offer.”  As if the 20% VAT on all that isn’t already covered.  I start losing my mind every time I think about this, so, if you want my long-winded opinion on the entire tourist tax scam, click here (or find it under Caveat Emptor on the right hand column on my blog page).

firenze/florence

buono     Turned its Piazza Duomo into a pedestrian area – and it’s wonderful.

brutto      Outlawed eating in that same inviting area and no sitting on the church steps. It's an effort to keep illegal immigrants & the homeless away, but ultimately hurts the millions of tourists who just want to take a break in a breathtaking area.

pompeii

buono      Authorities will be investigating the reasons why none of the dozens of archeologists on site could forecast the felling of the buildings.

brutto       That they fell in the first place.  Besides, the cases will probably take so long, we may never know the reasons why nor prevent it from happening again (Save building a rooftop over the entire place - a solution I'm sure the local Camorra is pushing for...)

napoli/naples

buono       Sell out shows by Saviano, the Gomorrah author both live and in TV audiences and the courage that this man has to name the most well-known secret in Italy.

brutto        That the trash piles up again for all the world to see -- along with the Neopolitans’ pat refusal to recycle, open up dumps, or see to it that those same dumps aren’t run by the mob & toxic waste isn't spilled in their path.

italy

buono        Mrs. Berlusconi finally decided not to ‘stand by her man’ – collecting her pieces and leaving the game.  Her example of walking out of the marriage farce may finally set thousands of cuckholded women and millions of ‘separati in casa’ free (of course, it eases the pain of leaving when you walk out with bags full of your Monopoly money).

brutto         Silvio’s economic plan for the underemployed youth of his time, reiterated throughout the year, “Marry rich.” 

buono        A 3hr. train ride from rome to Milan.

brutto          The price of that train ride.

Thanks for the packages, I can't wait to empty them out (Boxes carry Union labels)

with its foray into America, fiat becomes a strange source of pride for all & sundry, while taking on the unions, who have done their fare share of damage to Italy’s productivity.  and, continuing to give us colorful little 500s, they keep the love alive…

the advent of consumer’s associations. finally exercising their muscle, and getting results – on class action suits and otherwise. go to their websites to see who they’re going after.

many young women being the pride of Italy and winning competitions in fencing, tennis and swimming, among others.

prosecco outsells champagne this holiday season

brutto

Losing in the world cup along with their display of fakery on the pitch was a double-header of disgrace.

Young women who want to be showgirls or politicians (or both!) fueling the macho- man legacy and a sad statement for the future of Italy.

Aquila still in piles of rubble. But, I’m not one to complain – Ground Zero is still an open pit and New Orleans has not returned to its former self.

the last word

Blue mozzarella & fuchsia ricotta – Colorful rainbows aside, why are we importing cheeses from Germany?  Talk about a carbon footprint!

An Italian going up into outer space – for 6 months, no less.

Arrest & sequester of hundreds of mafia men & their properties

Movies set in Italy, The American, The Tourist, Eat-Pray-Love

What did you love or hate about events in Italy this year?

Natale a Napoli

You gotta hand it to the Neopolitans...centuries of subjugation from foreign overlords, drug lords, and local kings has imbued them with a terrific modus vivenda: a strong sense of humor in the face of so much adversity.  Now I'm not sure how many residents are truly laughing about the garbage crisis redux (excepting the dirty contractors laughing all the way to the banks), but here's the Best of the famed Neopolitan Nativity Scenes 2010 has on offer [I still want the gag rule figurines as pictured on the right hand column of my main blog page, but hey, even Julian Assange - pc in hand has made the grade]:

The Magi bringing trash to lay at the feet of Bambin Jesù

Julian, not yet handcuffed, alongside Hilary & Barry

The Holy Family stops for air on the flight from Egypt (clearly, the oxygen masks have dropped due to low cabin pressure)

 

 

 

 

 

Some have commented that perhaps it's all a bit blasphemous, but the fabricators on via San Gregorio Armeno say in their defense that forcing this situation on the residents is altogether blasphemous.  As for me, I like the ones depicting Berlusconi in any number of positions; not that I'd put him in my manger scene, however.

Let's hope that as we celebrate Natale, it's a Rebirth or Renaissance for Bella Napoli.
To read more about via San Gregorio Armeno, click here

Driving in Italy? How many points for a pedestrian?

One of my pet theories - that Naples has some of the best drivers & Milano the worst - has proved true.  Well, almost.  Anyone who has ever rented a car and driven through Naples will tell you, it's an absolute chaotic mess - something not dissimilar to little amoebas in a petri dish knocking around.  But look more closely: those cars that swing at you from every direction, making you appear like a character from the Wacky Races (you know, where the car suddenly sprouts huge springs to boost you above the cars so you can pass them all without incident), rarely ever actually hit each other. [with the exception of them hitting you, so you pull over, and while you're busy discussing, their buddy is depriving you of all your luggage & your purse].

Take a trip to Milan, and fender benders are par for the course.  Personally, I think it's because the roads are so chaotic in Naples, no one has time to ungrip the wheel in order to send text messages; while in stand-still Milano, people don't insomuch drive while talking on the phone, they talk on the phone while they happen to be absent-mindedly driving.

But don't take my word for it: just ask the pedestrians.

The stats were just released on the number of deaths by drivers - and, as the Amici della Polizia Stradale (they have friends?) reported, 'It's a combat zone out there.'  In 2009, there were 4725 victims out there, up 2 points from 2008.  And, just to give you some bare numbers, this translates into 7.859 deaths since 2000 and 205.432 injured - one third of them while walking across those white crosswalks (or hopelessly faded ones, I'm sure).
So, where should you 'cross with (grande) care?'  Distressing at least to this Roman, Lazio takes the lead (106 victims), 2/3 of the victims in Rome alone, followed by Milan's Lombardy region (99) and Emilia Romagna at 67 (very few of those coming from the city of Bologna itself-so go figure).
And, where is it wise to walk?  Of course, Valle d'Aosta - as close to Switzerland as one can get (2 victims, but few inhabitants too), Molise (3) (if you knew where the heck it even was on a map), and Verona & Bari - really?! (if you've ever driven around Bari you'd understand my surprise) at zero - But here, our Amici make an exception: provided the victims were actually fully accounted for.  Palermo & Naples a respectful 13 & 14 casualties.

Oh-And my theory?  Neapolitans know how to avoid all & sundry while they maniacally dart in & out of traffic -- riding on sidewalks if they have to, only to suddenly squeeze in before cutting down that family of four - also on the sidewalk and perched at 60 km/hour on a Vespa.  In Milan, Trevor got run over by a car frozen in traffic at a standstill.  I rest my case.
The Milanese take any other moving object as a target. Instead of playing squash, it's how they get their nervous energy out.  But, while Naples may be a paradise for pedestrians, take my advice: drive there at your own peril.

Real Time Update to this Post:
On Dec 9th, the State Court of Appeals (in Naples, no less) ruled that if you, the pedestrian, hesitates in your approach to the (clearly faded) white lines, seeing that as you're crossing, a car is shooting at you at 80km/hr, it's your fault if you're run over.
After all, these are the same guys who said if you're raped while wearing jeans, it's clearly consensual [ignoring the obvious that even a guy would take his jeans off if he had a knife to his throat].

Tante Belle Cose - September2010 Roman Culture

There have been so many great things happening in and around the country, it’s almost as if the entire country of Italy were trying to hide the fact that the government’s been in meltdown since August. Cultural events, free museums, better (almost) everything – that doesn’t have to do with governing. As a wise man once remarked, “Italy functions despite its government.”

In terms of travel, Italy’s train company announced (along with its October special discounts released on the 30th, that you have to book 1 month in advance to get – ahem) that you can now take a train straight to Milan's Malpensa Airport from Rome – without changing trains.

Rome's Palazzo Barberini - National Gallery of Art finally reopened after years of restoration – in its entirety – after the Ministry of Culture spent (well spent) years of wrangling away half the palace that was given over to the Defense Ministry’s clubhouse (or something like that). It opened to great fanfare, day-long lines just to get in the door; and with artworks by all the masters, worth a trip for sure.

Not only did Sept bring free events in the museums and evening visits to the Vatican Museums, but we could now visit a host of other places opened by night for concerts, events, all kinds of entertainments. So much so, people were once again remarking, "Give 'em pane et circences" - bread & circuses."
It was also a great month for having rooftop drinks on terraces around Rome – and if you don’t have a friend with one, I enjoyed the sips & sights on the Hotel47 roof (next to Bocca della Verità), Hotel San Giorgio (on via Giulia), and no summer can end without dinner or a drink on the fabulous terrace of the Galleria di Arte Moderna.

Mr. Tanzi, responsible for the biggest accounting fraud in history – the Parmalat scandal (if you don’t count the Madoff-Ponzi scheme) had his Knighthood revoked (Cavaliere); although his freedom still hasn’t been. Citing age (he’s 70), they're trying to get him to avoid jail so he can enjoy the fruits of his labours…Madoff got 150 years, but it’s not like the judge & jury thought he’d live them out.

And, in a country where things are still being unearthed (mostly by monied tombaroli tomb raiders), 500 – yes, 500 cases filled with artifacts from the Roman Forum was found. Not really lost, they had gone into hiding during the war – and then lost in storage. They think it’ll take years to account for each of the pieces, but, little by little we’ll get to see the finds at one of my favorite museums, Museo di Civiltà Romana in nearby EUR.

But, my highlight of the month came when visiting Naples – Trevor & I went to the excellent Città della Scienza – “the only dog-friendly museum on earth”. Aside from the installations, activities, and wealth of ideas, friendliness and professionalism (not to mention the yumbo gnocchi alla sorrentina and caponata served at their cafeteria), we found out that the following Sunday was ‘dog day afternoon’ – and families could visit with their pets in tow. Wouldn’t I have liked to see Trev’s hair standing on end at the electric current generator…

Francesca Maggi's...Strange But True!

Here’s a bit of news from our neighbors to the north…

During this financial crisis, the French seriously mean business. After all, these are the ones who invented (and used, with relish) the guillotine. They’re also the ones, when angry at the government, tip over trucks to block the highways across the country. So it’s no wonder that they’ve taken up taking hostages in the forms of Company directors, each time layoffs are announced. A little vigilantism goes a long way…

You know you live in a “picture perfect” country when you find an ad asking for volunteers to – I am not making this up – scrub the sides of mountains to free them from bird droppings. Seriously. Of course, it’s Switzerland. But, couldn’t they force those same bankers to get the job done?
Click here for the promotional video. But one astute commenter noted: Gli svizzeri puliscono addirittura le montagne gratis. Berlusconi, per pulire Napoli usa l'esercito in Stato d'Emergenza Nazionale. The Swiss use volunteers to clean entire mountain ranges. Berlusconi, to clean up Naples uses the Army in a perpetual State of Emergency.

Meanwhile, in Germany, a woman won a divorce case against her husband because he was a maniacal cleaner. I’m wondering if mothers-in-law would qualify for the same treatment…

And in England, I ran into a sign (I believe it was at the airport) that read, “NO clubs, bats, darts, snooker cues, knitting needles”. Darn. I was really looking forward to a good game of snooker with my lucky cue.

Italy: what goes up must go down

Readers of the blog will know that I have a few obsessions (while people who know me know that the number is somewhere in the hundreds)...So, I thought I'd provide, from time to time, the lowdown on whassup with the hottest issues of the day (and, to that anonymous reader...I apologize, Mara Carfagna is not one of them).

Alitalia -- It's fallen so far off the radar that I thought that maybe it just died a silent death, akin to the $60M www.italia.it website (Berlusconi-Stanca's folly) after the last govt pulled the plug. Even the opposition in Parliament brought it up the other day -- on one of the local talk shows -- called Chi l'ha visto? (Who's seen it??). It's still flying, right?

But, never fear, AirOne (my fave airline) is picking up the slack with its awesome new made-in-Italy ad campaign. Taking you to new heights as they show us a few guys -- walking, no less -- to an oil platform...Obviously, they're talking about the price of fuel...
Monnezzopoli (Garbage City) -- While the local officials scratch their collective heads wondering why the tourists aren't flocking to their proud city, it looks like the garbage is overflowing again. The Germans, who took all the excess and recycled 99.9% of it without burning a single celery stick have had their proverbial fill. The government is sticking its foot down and opening the 10 designated sites to riots and protests. But, not only are they arresting protestors, they've arrested 25 people from the last government on a series of charges from favoring the camorra to damaging the State.

And this govt wants to build four nuclear reactors? They can't get rid of our Coke cans & coffee grounds let alone find places to bury nuclear waste...
What comes up must come down -- First, they're taking down the (invisible) elevators of the Vittoriano -- they're an eyesore...Now, they want to dismantle the Ara Pacis (see photo in left column). The Mayor wants to issue a referendum on the matter...

Seeing that the new City Govt. inherited record deficits, they obviously can't think of things to do with all the cash in the city coffers.

Trash or Treasure Trove?

At the risk of being accused as totally garbage-obsessed, I merely keep this up because while Napoli’s no longer making front page news, the problem still persists. But I offer hope.

Today’s La Repubblica newspaper ran an entire two page spread on a certain Zhang Yin, the richest woman in China, and the most successful “Self-Made Woman” in the world (with apologies to Oprah & JK Rowling, Queen Elizabeth & Imelda Marcos – although the latter are not really self-made, unless they started selling off art and shoes, then they'd make the grade). In any case, she made her money from recycling.

In Italy, they are now talking about instituting fines for people who don’t recycle. I can’t help but thinking that, at least in Rome, this initiative is going to go the way of fines for people who don’t pick up after their doggie’s poops. I mean, who is truly there to monitor? Especially at night, when, come morning, all the merda is all over the sidewalks? (The same can be said for garbage). In Milan, the garbage was separated in each apartment complex. The entire apartment would be fined time and again until we caught on. Needless to say, we caught on real quick and recycling in Milan is around 45%.

In Naples, tenants may pay the ‘pizzo’, but I’d like to see if they’ll pay the pizza-box fine or just send a few henchmen to the Condo President’s front door instead.

In Rome, we have anonymous dumpsters placed randomly around town. So, will they post little garbage fairies at each of the dumpsters who will then come chasing after you with your garbage in tow? Like most laws, they will be imposed but not enforced. Chaos wrapped in (unrecyclable) cellophane.
I propose that someone (preferably outside the Mafia) in this country of few trees takes a good hard look at Ms. Zhang’s enterprise. She takes containers that arrive in America, dumping their trash… errr goods and picks up the paper trash to bring back to China. Sheer brilliance. And she got extremely wealthy along the way.

Of course, she does business with a country where people separate their garbage out, voluntarily, and without the risk of fines…three things we’ll be hard-pressed to come by here. But, I would like to appeal to Italy’s innate entrepreneurial spirit. I know if she can do it, an Italian can do so, too.

In the meantime, I would also like to make an appeal to Ms. Zhang: I hear there’s a flotilla the size of North America roaming around the Pacific Ocean and made up of plastic bottles that have agglomerated from the undercurrents. Can you maybe throw out a huge net and perhaps tow this “Great Pacific Garbage Patch” back over to China too?
Alright. I admit it, I am garbage-obsessed.

The Tears of San Gennaro

With wonderful, Southern Italian drama, this last weekend even the Church added a few recyclable bottles to the pile while imploring all good Christians to start recycling, for the good of all the residents. Except these bottles were full of the tears of San Gennaro, the patron Saint of Naples. Although his remains are pulled out each year, sometimes San Gennaro is called in to do overtime; in particular, during “catastrophic events”, such as the one encompassing Naples right now.

And so, in a very modern update (or, a very medieval one, depending on your point of view), one can now add ‘garbage’ to the list of miracles to be performed by this great saint, along with War, pestilence, earthquakes and general miserableness, usually famine. It’s too bad that during the latter, most people’s miracle appeared in the shape of a large ship, taking them to America. But with Ellis Island a tourist destination and the borders pretty much closed to proper immigrants, well, neapolitans can’t really count on that option today.

So here we are, asking San Gennaro to work on that last catastrophe in reverse; given this is an extreme case of over-abundance – of garbage, that is. And that miracle needs to take effect by January 30th, when the European Union starts to enact sanctions which could cost the country up to 700,000 euro (over $1M) per day.

- While the Army has cleared up most of central Naples, they’ve seem to run out of places to even store the stuff for safe-keeping until it can be processed elsewhere. Once again, the residents, expecting the stuff to miraculously disappear in thin air, are fighting even access to these storage places.

- The Fire Brigades are putting out fires at the rate of about 1 every 15 mins.

- De Gennaro’s idea to reopen, albeit temporarily, the dumps is virtually out of the question, given the residents’ blocking of the roads with trucks, buses, and themselves.

- After procuring ‘okays’ and even handshakes from other regions to take the garbage, including Sardinia and Lombardy, the fallout was such that they changed their minds no sooner did they step back into their pristine regions. (my solution: in the interest of 'loose lips sinking ships', blacking out the press until the garbage has been processed).

- Meanwhile, while everyone agrees that the region (and all of Italy for that matter) need these termovalorizzatori, whereby they turn the garbage into energy, they will take 3 years to build.

With all this resistance, what will they do until then? (and with whose contracts, and at what price for the corruption-laced building contracts there). Of course, getting them to recycle in the first place should have been put in place by the city and regional govts. in the first place, but, it's still an option. Of course, those wily Neapolitans have even thought of dumping it all into Vesuvius, and hope that the gods don't get angry and spit out the toxins all the same. Who knows if this isn't the real reason behind Pompeii's demise??

In any case, the appropriately named De Gennaro, the ‘Garbage Czar’, certainly needs his own miracle to get this resolved.

Kiss Naples Goodnight

Ahhh...Naples is known for its incredible tradition of folk songs, and, is the home of one of my most favorite Italian singers, jazz artist, Pino Daniele. Not only has Napoli inspired arias, folksongs, dance, poets, artists and writers, to make up their own heritage, but many artists have set their tunes to lovely Naples by the Mediterranean Sea.
Louis Prima, another favorite of mine (and not least for being the inspiration for and the actual voice of King Louie in Disney's The Jungle Book, is making a comeback these days. I thought it appropriate, since he was born and raised in that other unfortunate place by the sea, New Orleans, to use him for my very own tribute to lovely Napoli.

Please note: the lyrics have been altered slightly but the beat remains the same:

Buona Sera, signorina, buona sera
It is time to say goodnight to Napoli
Though it's hard for us to whisper, buona sera
with the noise coming from the military

In the mornin' signorina we'll go walkin'
‘Round the mountains of the trash to see the light
And by the little jewelry shop we'll not stop to linger
‘cuz you have to hold your nose with your ring finger

But in the meantime let me tell you that I love you
Buona sera, signorina kiss Naples goodnight
Buona sera, signorina kiss Naples goodnight


I was based overlooking New York Harbour when the now-infamous Garbage Barge came passing through again and again...Check this out.

Napoli Bis

Well, after delving into the foreign press, a little more apt to give you the 5W's than our Italian journalists, I finally got a quick rundown on the situation down in Campania, and offer you here my own answers to my own questions on the topic of garbage removal along with a few more spurious observations:

- Why'd the garbage back up in the first place?
What: While it looks like the dumps are simply full (they are), it's due to a simple lack of recycling plants, incinerators, and land fills.
Dietrologia/What's Behind It: The conspiracy theorists say that since the illegal (read: mafia/camorra controlled) dumps profit from these 'overflows', well, there may be an interest in a back log.
Quickie solution: the army is hauling the stuff to pits or someplace. Still near residents, no doubt, but at least free from illegal dumping of toxic waste.
New Solution: While they're talking about building new treatment plants (obviously not a short-term solution), some say they create energy, while others say they cause cancers (my vote: the latter), it would appear that Landlocked Switzerland with less land mass than Italy might take the stuff for recycling and energy and all those good things...
This begs a question I won't even bother posing.

- Why is everyone against the incinerators, etc.
What: Basically, due to a mistrust in government and local agencies (wonder why??)
Dietrologia/What's Behind It: I've since discovered after reading some insightful reports from the foreign press that contracts are won but then the toxic waste is merely dumped anywhere or in illegal dumps, which would explain why no one wants a dump near their homes.
According to some statistics, cancer is 12% above average for women living near dumps, 9% in men. That's certainly a strong case against them.
Quickie solution: Provide oversight to see that that doesn't happen? Fuggettaboutit..

New Solution: Another solution used successfully in Sicily is taking garbage into a place and the thing / machine/ magic elves separate out all the stuff into totally recyclable materials, and then goes ahead and recycles them! That's so they don't even have to go up against the locals refusing to separate out their garbage.
I have always held that the Italians are nothing if not inventive, and this, coming from the people who gave the world robotics, well, in my opinion it solves the problem on so many levels, it's sheer brilliance...
So brilliant, don't expect it to be put into use in the near future.

-The Camorra/Mafia Any way to get around them? Highly unlikely. In their infinite wisdom, the Italian govt. has you sign declarations in 6 copies of a document called 'Antifmafia Certificate' whereby, when you win a contract, you declare that you have nothing to do with the mafia.
Let me tell you, that is quite the deterrent.

- The Violence Meanwhile, the military has been sent into haul garbage but not restore order. And so, the fire brigades (trying to put out garbage fires are coming under attack and are forced into combat. Yesterday a bus was hijacked to place crossways in front of a potentially opened dump, and kids are still not going to school.

The Garbage Czar they've named has his work cut out for him. Hopefully, he'll do better than the folks in New Orleans.

See Naples and Die

Don’t put your trash in my backyard, my backyard, my backyard, Don’t put your trash in my backyard, my backyard’s full. from my favorite children's round

People have been asking me to comment on the garbage situation in Naples. I must confess, however, that after reading about 16 different articles over 29 pages of print, I still don’t know the true root cause for this calamity (I don't think anyone does, although Beppe Grillo, a comic turned political activist, takes no prisoners in deftly pointing out all the Usual Suspects in his blog. You can check out his SPAZZATOUR video (with foreign correspondents in tow) here.

Except for the fact that garbage is piled up to the sky, the amount of toxins in the air is at higher levels than if there'd been a massive blowout from Mt Vesuvius, and, the toxin levels grow exponentially the more garbage gets set afire by people taking the situation into their own hands. Even the kids didn’t want to attend school (seeing there are no school buses to be blocked by the garbage it must be the wily neapolitans’ way to get a Snow Day -- after all, it is January).

But, it looks like the authorities have decided to send in the troops; not to maintain order or anything plausible like that, but to physically haul the trash outta there (and to where, pray tell?).

So, instead of reading some insightful critique, I will give you only a few ‘talking points’, surrounding what confuses me the most:

- if they say that ‘everyone’ is interested in garbage removal from corrupt politicians to the camorra to the companies hauling the stuff, why is no one capitalizing on this obvious flood in raw materials? You’d think they’d be scrambling to haul it away to illegal incinerators or sell it to Romania or whatever, but that just ain’t the case.

- if residents don’t want incinerators and whatnot near them, what is their choice? Certainly they can’t truly believe that mile high garbage and all the pollutants that come with it (not to mention the stench and the physical impossibility of getting yourself around it) is a better alternative?

- if the most successful and largest company in Italy is the Mafia/Camorra (due I would say in large part to their complete mobility of employees – and bosses, come to think of it, not to mention the enormous tax savings, and of course, very few pensions to pay out later and, no commission payments to Visa or Amex), why don’t they just call ‘em in there to do what they do best? Haul out garbage. Cash in the returns.

- And as for returns, who ever knew there was so much money to be had recycling or removing garbage? Why??? I cannot quite grasp where the money comes from picking up peoples’ waste and then burning it.

My only solution to this whole predicament is not to bring in the military, but rather, bring in all those pyromaniacs who each summer set the entire Southern countryside all ablaze.

You could save the trees and clear the trash at the same time.