Showing posts with label Milan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Milan. Show all posts

Saturday, December 6

Italian Fashion: Dressed to the Nines

Lately, I've been giving a lot of thought to what's changed in Italy - for better or for worse - since I first landed over twenty years ago. Sometimes, it's hard to say if anything truly is worse (although Italians & economists from all corners say it is).  Perhaps I simply hadn't noticed issues when I was younger and too busy traveling for both business or pleasure.  
With these thoughts constantly ferreting through my mind, I got a chuckle from a certain Dory on Twitter - when she posted @DFindingDory:
some bitch: omg you wore that shirt the other day me: yeah well in my house we have this amazing thing called a washing machine

It reminded me growing up in the U.S., you could never be caught dead wearing the same clothes two days in a row.  I swear in U.S. corporations it is still cause for dismissal.  So when I first arrived in Italy, I would be stunned to see those impressive men and women impeccably dressed, right down to magnetic blue high heels to match their acquamarine tailleur. I am still in awe whenever I see that mix. They were memorable.
So much so, that I believe large part of the rage against FIAT head Sergio is less about moving his profits to Holland and closing factories than his insistence on wearing sweaters instead of the mandatory stunning Armani business attire of his fellow countrymen.
Coming from the country that invented "leisure suits" - "sweat suits" and "casual Fridays, you'd face your coworkers, duly impressed.  But then, waltzing into the office the next day, you'd be struck by some bizarre déjà vu episode.  You could swear that that classy woman in the fabulous hot pink ensemble would be wearing the same thing again, going about her business as if nothing was amiss.  I would wonder if it was some sort of code of honour, basically spelling it out lest we glaze over its rich symbolism: "Wow--Did I have a whopper of an evening last nite! What day is it, again?"  When in reality, it was probably nothing quite so tantalizing. They just slaved over their outfit with a handy iron - something that I believe Italians are trained to use as soon as they are out of diapers.  And that's so they can iron their underwear.
Find the Canadian.
Over time, I, too, would adopt the practice of repeat dressing -- sadly, with or without the wild nights prior (okay, okay, mostly without).  And now I find it's a regular part of the repertoir.   But try as I might, it just comes off appearing more like homelessness than anything else.  That's because my outfit -- would be tossed mindlessly over a chair the night before.  As for Italians, much to my chagrin, they will look classy no matter how many times they put on the ritz - wearing the same thing as before.  Maybe it's that their clothes -- are wrinkle-free.

Tuesday, July 15

Berlusconi - A report card on his trials & tribulations

School may be out for the summer, but I thought I'd give you a Report Card on the judiciary woes that have our favorite Prime Minister currently "working" (albeit only a few hours a week) at a Senior Citizen Home as retribution for one of his many prickly peccadillos.   
Just in case anyone wants to keep track:

1 - Found GUILTY for the Mediaset Tax Fraud case, in which he was sentenced to 4 years in prison, later reduced to 1 year for a law to reduce jail overcrowding, reduced to community service since he is now over 70 years old.  
He was also banned from public office for 5 years, but has managed to get that 'under review' as well.
1 - ABSOLVED due to his party changing the law so it would no longer be illegal
2 - Cases DROPPED due to a govt amnesty (surprise, surprise)
3 - Cases DROPPED - usually for statute of limitations.  To many, this is nothing short of incredible. In Italian trials, the clock keeps ticking even once you're on trial, so...your smooth lawyers can stall and stall and Whoa, really?! I'm off because we didn't try my case in time? Funny how that works. 
7 - Cases going to TRIAL

So, where does the "most persecuted man in history" stand on his many trials today?

  • RUBY RUBACUORE - the heart stealer who got him 7 years for sex with a minor - he is now getting it up in appeals.
  • RUBY TER - some of Berlusconi's illustrious Brat & Rat Pack got jail terms for basically running a prostitution ring at Silvio's playpen in Arcore (Sardinia), Berlusconi is going to be tried on corrupting witnesses, since he was paying his call girls - err... friends - nice stipends the whole time leading up to and during the trial [€5M to Ruby and 2500/month to others].
  • BARI ESCORT - more girl problems for Silvio from top to bottom of the Boot. Again, abetting prostitution and then lying about it.
  • BUYING VOTES - In Naples he's on trial for "convincing" a certain Senator (Sergio De Gregorio, who has confessed) to switch parties during a crucial vote; thereby impeding the govt
  • LODO MONDADORI - This coming October, Berlusconi is being asked to pay further damages to his biggest competitor, a certain De Benedetti to whom he was already forced to pay 494 Million euro. They're asking for about 90M more for the legal fees and interest payments.
  • DIVORCE - Ahhh yes, sometimes, when you're caught once too often with your pants down and with minors no less, your wife might say, Basta! Enough is Enough.  So now, the courts need to come up with a tidy alimony payment for her own public embarrassment and with the richest man in Italy.

* A terrific synopsis by the BBC on these cases here
You can find more on my favorite Italian, at The Silvio Show here

Tuesday, June 10

Italy: Bribe City & More - Same Time Next Year

Per quest'anno, non cambiare, stessa spiaggia stesso mare...
Per poterti rivedere...per tornare quest' estate insieme a me.
E come l'anno scorso....Sotto gli ombrelloni, lontano, lontano nessuno ci vedrà




This year, don't change a thing...
Same sand - same sea
So to see you again and relive this summer again with me.
This season, like the last one....
Under the large umbrellas, out of sight, out of sight, no one will see us...


This summer the headlines have been filled day by day of the titillating stories of the millions upon millions in bribes that our dear political hacks and their cronies have been pocketing over the large construction projects going up around Italy. Especially scintillating, since Milan ("Bribe City" of yesteryear) and Venice, the supposed scandal-free serenissima, are the locations of such sculduggery [for Milan's Expo2015 and Mose - Moses water divider project in Venice].
And while people seem to be aghast at the breadth and depth of these particular scandals, I am always astonished by them for a number of reasons:  

First off, it is not the untold millions stolen from hospitals, or school kids, or the elderly that I find stunning: It is the fact that people still find it surprising when it happens (or maybe, justifiably, that they get caught at all with their grubby hands in the till).
Secondly, that people actually believe that pursuant to the events of 1992-1996 Tangentopoli-Bribe City that took place in Milan and (supposedly) rid the country of a rotten political class, that the country was on the mend. I, for the life of me, cannot fathom the extent to which Italians live in such a state of marked denial.  And they say we're pessimists here. Al contrario, this is either raging optimism or, I'm afraid, hopelessness and lack of faith in our institutions; the first symptom of a failing State.

I mean, this is a country where you have to pay a bribe to get your driver's license.
• Where families pay off doctors to get a bed in a hospital room.
• Where the clergy have been shown (thru Vatileaks) to be on the take from everything from catering a concert to running illegal funds for deposit in Switzerland.
• Where people I know, from someone selling pencils to companies or someone building bank branches, have to pay someone off in order to seal the deal, large or small.

Moreover, people still are wont to believe that if we pay politicians (including low-life city councilmen) twice as much as U.S. Presidents, more than every other European country, shower them with perks, per diems, apartments and chauffeurs, that this would dissuade them from stealing from the pot. Not so.
As a former Wall Street trader put it, the more you rake in, you become addicted to getting even more, by any means possible.

But the one thing that irks me no end, is that, with all their oodles of money, (almost) nowhere do you see Foundations, University Chairs, Hospitals, et.al. being named after someone who cashed it in. At least our Robber Barons left us a few choice universities, innumerable foundations, hospitals, even abroad.  In Rome, even the founder of Kodak built a dentistry hospital. Do you see anything but villas and a generation of women with fishlips that Berlusconi has left as a legacy? He's just a regular Bill Gates, alright. Except that instead of vaccinating Africans, he started his very own training program: to teach Ghedaffi's Woman Guard how to Pole Dance.
No, these criminals and, sadly, the public at large, expect 'The State' to take care of it all. Really? After you've stolen all the public money? Again, citing a recent article about America's 1%:  The problem is, these people, with all their money, will still only be able to buy so many shoes (unless, of course, you're Imelda Marcos). By taking the money from millions, millions of sales are lost. Companies fold. Everyone loses. I've been inside Senator's houses that could be free-standing museums. Sadly, the works stashed away and hidden from cameras are never bequeathed to the public when the patron's free-wheeling ways and days come to an end.  And yet, we still believe. Year in and year out.
- Wasn't that Moses contraption supposed to divide the waters?
-  Yeah-but for now, it's only divvying up the bribe money.
The Fiamme Gialle financial police who uncover these crimes deserve a Shout Out from each and every honest Italian. But still, check out the bank accounts of any purchasing dept head in any company in Italy; there's still more to find, year after year, after year.
And, now, I'll close with another song lyrics that aptly portrays this new rendition of Bribe City:

Second verse, same as the first -- but a whole lot louder and a whole lot worse! 

Sunday, January 19

Life in Italy: Paradise in a Handbasket?

Friends & I got to reminiscing about the good ol' days of Life in Italy.  Basically, my building in the center of Milan had been bombed by the Allies.  But my staircase survived, which is how my neighbor - living high up on what I counted as the ninth floor (and what Italians unabashedly called the fourth) rushed her kids out of the building and over to safety.  You see, I have a theory:  When they rebuilt the building, the other three stairwells were outfitted with elevators.  Ours was not.  And while I cursed each and every time I came home from a trip to the USA with two over-stuffed suitcases filled with goodies, or every time (make that three times per day), I had to go out and walk my dog, well, I was better for it.  And so was my neighbor lady who lived to the beyond-ripe ol'age, actually, totally mature one of over 116. The woman upstairs from us (on floor 9 1/2 by my count), was still going strong last time I saw her at 97. With her rosy cheeks and strong countenance, I had always assumed her 70+ year old son was her husband.  There were no other old people in any other part of the building.  Case in point. 
But, what would I have given for one of those old-fashioned Italian baskets and pulleys that I could have used to hoist my bottled water up those nine floors all those years?  We had a tiny drugstore just below.  I would have pledged my unbridled allegiance at the expense of paying three times more for my groceries, if the grocer could have blithely given a tug week after week. Heck--I would've put my old dog in the basket rather than force him up the staircase of doom.  We still even had the pulleys in place.  [Although I'm glad I didn't, he lived to be 20 in the end].
An old Panaro - or wicker basket used for groceries
still in use in Italy's south - and still necessary everywhere else
- picture & excellent Italian writeup on this & more at
Le Mille e Una Storia - 
So a friend here in Rome then told me that her building still had one of these.  One so strong you could actually put a person inside [but who's going to do the heavy lifting, well, that's another story].  I was totally green with envy.  In Milan, we had outlawed the hanging of laundry on balconies.  The baskets I'm sure went out around about the time they decided to asphalt the glorious canals that had made Milan look more like Amsterdam.  The noisy old trams have their days numbered while Milan grows ever more modern.
Call me nostalgic, I for one, would love to bring the canals & the baskets back to Milan, along with the breadmakers or panettieri from whom the basket gets its name.  
Milano - Then & Now

You can join the Association lobbying for the reopening of Milan's 
amazing canal system here
Riaprire i Navigli


Sunday, November 24

The Decadenza of Berlusconi's Decadence

Silvio Berlusconi's most recent claim that should he be forced to serve time (doing community service) for his financial crimes is tantamount to a "Coup".  If you hadn't reached yet the outer bounds to this man's narcissism, well, this would be a good place to start.  This statement speaks volumes about what the richest man in Italy thinks of his country: He runs it like a Zimbabwean Overlord.  He also is threatening again to pull the plug whenever he sees fit - which, according to his weekend saber-rattling, is scheduled to align with the vote to oust him from parliament.  His buddy, Putin, is rumored to be en route to provide the elusive Get out of jail free card: A diplomatic passport to whisk him out of the country.
But in Silvio's defense, I must say, he's a modern-day Robin Hood Despot Dictator.  He didn't really rob from the rich to pay the poor; he didn't even use the government as his personal piggy-bank -- although both he and his companies certainly reaped benefits from many of the ad personam laws that were passed to favor his oligarchy.  But this happens in many countries; The USA no. 01 amongst them.  Unlike Putin, Silvio is big-hearted: he never jailed his opposition, preferring to buy them off.  He would use his media empire to publicly humiliate the nay-sayers, raking them through the coals.  One could say, Silvio is like Santa; making a list and checking it twice.
Instead, Berlusconi deprived the poor taxpayers of Italy of their hard-earned funds, in order to deviate them to his lesser paesani orbiting his inner circles: like childhood buddy and IBM Director, Stanca, getting millions to build a national brand website and later a choice job posting in charge of the World Expo in Milan after being disgraced for having built the horrific $3.99 Italy.it site.  But Silvio's hardly the only one to do this:  Just last week, the new Prime Minister rewarded bonuses of $30,000 to his $270,000/year salaried managers (there are hundreds just on his staff alone) for increasing productivity [e.g., employing email and other means to streamline communications -- as if they weren't already spending their days on porn sites, facebook and twitter].  That bonus is more than the average salary of two-income families with unemployed offspring wasting away in Italy.
While the politicians pretend that the public money suddenly at their fingertips is for their own private distribution of these types of perks, salaries and backroom rewards, Silvio instead dipped into his own deep pockets to give money to those less fortunate.  He doesn't do this the honorable way, say, like Bill Gates, or The Kresge Foundation or heck, the thousands who donate their money to universities, museums and foundations.  Instead, Berlusconi simply put most of his call girls on his payroll, put other PYTs into choice government "jobs" that pay more than what Barack Obama makes, even as they push pencils in city government offices or in the European parliament.  He even goes as far to house women in his apartments lest they be forced to return to the streets - and beat the pavement for new Johns who most certainly won't be as generous.  He gave millions of his own funds to friends and agents who could ply him with hookers; some disgraced and in jail today.
So, where to next? Parliament will vote on whether this convicted criminal (and we haven't even finished the trial of his abetting prostitution and sex with an underaged hooker) should remain in politics.  (The official term, decadenza or forfeiture which, delightfully, just so happens to be the same word for decadence).  Silvio, in his defense, states his family is being treated like the Jews under Hitler -- clearly in the dark as to the reason for his supposedly being shipped to a concentration camp (he's allowed free movement around Italy, to each of his villas & playgrounds) and ultimately gassed (being told to go home & stop playing politics with people's lives and livelihoods).  He then reiterated his claim that any community service would be an insult to his dignity [Clearly neglecting to think of the irony of that statement for two reasons: 1) A dirty old pervert who is practically running a prostitution ring day & night from his high office is dignified?  And 2) Serving the public was what he should have been doing in the first place.]
So, we're now at the 11th hour.  He has thrown down his last card, demanding a Presidential Pardon for his multimillion euro payoffs, errr  piccadilloes.  I can't help but think where Italy might be today if he and his cronies had employed the same fervor in propping up Silvio so he can get it on in Arcore, and put it into saving Italy from slipping further into debt and impotence.  The Ace up his sleeve?  Taking all the flaccid politicians down with him - thus putting a (temporary) end to their orgies of massive paychecks & perks, chauffer-driven cars & backroom bribes.  The ones that don't return get to ride out their dismay in lavish villas with huge retirement checks that will go to their wives and kids one day.
In the end, Silvio Berlusconi will always remain a role model and symbol of Italy: He's the poster boy for corruption, the narcissistic playboy who many wish they were, the monied bon vivant who everyone wants to be around, the jokester who laughs while the rest of the country falls into oblivion, the pathological liar who blames it all on the Commies.  Sadly, what Italy won't get from Silvio is an impressive university chair, a thinktank, a museum trust, or any investment in his supposed beloved country.  Just like the worst of the Ancient Emperors, we'll be left with just a few rotting columns one day in the heart of Rome in his name.
And the final irony? For all his communist-bashing, his savior may just be the man who heads up Russia; a country that has all the natural resources, corruption and whores galore to whet the appetite of any Despot Dictator.

Tuesday, November 19

Life in Italy - A Day in Pictures

In my eternal conquest to douse a bucket of water on the hoards of wanderers and day dreamers who wont for a life in Bell'Italia...I say, of course, who wouldn't?  But lately, I see more and more bloggers and articles doing their own versions of Burnt by the Tuscan Sun 'Reality Checks' - Many of whom express my sentiments exactly, which I carefully outline in the epilogue of my book:  Italy is wonderful - but does not come without its own hassles.  And of course, this sentiment can be applied to every place on earth.  So, it's good to settle down in the place that gives you - for whatever your needs are - the best life to lead.
Having said that, here's my antidote of the day for that Quality of Life that everyone thinks they get in Italy.  These are pictures purloined from facebook and the web in just a single hour of checking my Feed.   You can chalk this post up to my being in a very bad mood, ever since Rome's Mayor Marino closed off the road to traffic rounding the Colosseum.  I no longer find joy sitting in traffic in Rome - when I could, on a nightly basis, whiz by the Colosseum and get thrilled down to my tippy-toes and recall, just how fabulous Italy truly is.  What a guasta-festa that Mayor is...so here I am, to party-poop myself:

A friend called this 'Hit&Run Party'
Sadly, it's a fairly typical feature come Saturday evenings in Italy
After all...someone else will clean it up later.
Fortunately for the photographer, Milan probably takes better care of their parks than Rome
(which is blessed with many many more, and far larger...but still)

A fellow blogger posted this from her old town center on the outskirts of Rome.
Guests (who have been arriving for months), cannot for the life of them
figure out why this trash can laden with cement has not been removed
from one of the ancient sites in her town.

Okay, I lied.  This is a picture taken in the park near my house about 24 hrs. after Rome's
Servizi Giardini came and cleaned up.  And every weekend, it's the same routine.
Even when their services are in play, in a matter of minutes, the place becomes someone's living room

I add this photo of this gorgeous building near my house that took upwards of 8 yrs
to build and, along with its sister skyscraper next door, remains unoccupied due to
nefarious business dealings by the owners [basically, the land is seemingly owned by someone else].
Across Italy, empty or half-finished concrete monstrosities are the norm. The result of people
simply running out of funds or having built on eco-zoned or residential land.
This photo is remarkable for two reasons:  One, the immigrants are now ripping the place apart - windows, doors,
electrical wiring, you name it.  I'm surprised squatters haven't simply moved straight in (doors have all been removed).
And two, on the same day I found these other photos posted, I read in the newspapers that
the City had - incredibly - given permission to build a third skyscraper on the very spot.
You can't make this stuff up.

I've seen this photo make the rounds on facebook before, but here it is again.
Made in Italy.


Taken this morning in Florence by talented sculptor - artist - blogger - author
 - teacher and best yet, Madonnara street painter (the title of her book) -- Kelly Borsheim
Reminding us why, of course, Italy still rocks.
www.BorsheimArts.com

Wednesday, February 1

Tante Belle Cose - Italy gets off to a New Start

With our Prime Minister Monti receiving the (sham) recognition* from the Paris journal Trombinoscope as "European of the Year", it's not surprising that things are looking up for Italy, despite the crippled Concordia stuck on its side in troubled waters [insert your metaphor here].


There appears to be a new tide of taking on the tax cheats, petty criminals and those bad apples who seem to ruin the entire barrel, if you are at least to believe the newspapers.  Regardless, it's a welcome sight to see the mainstream media finally bringing to light the Corruption of the Day blasted right on the front pages.  Hopefully, this pace will keep up. 


- This month, we saw the Financial Police (something akin to the IRS) go in to nightclubs all over Milan.  Once the proprietors saw that they were being watched, incredibly, receipts and income rose by 44%, in some cases up to 200% in one night alone.
Of course, it could be that suddenly a lot more people just wanted to party before the end of the world in 2012...

- Rome brought out a fine of €250 for those caught not scooping up the poop.  Surveying the lofty Via Veneto, one woman in a fur said, "Give me a ticket - I can't pick that gross stuff up."

If that's the case, why don't you (and all your paesani for that matter) simply "curb your dog"???

- Italy's new Minister of Equal Opportunities blasted Rome's Mayor Alemanno for playing three-card monty with his City Council members.  Forced by law to have equal numbers of men & women (he has 10 to 2), he simply dissolved his cabinet the day before it was to take effect and re-employed them all.  That way, those who oppose his number-challenged mind, have to start the judicial process all over again.
In his defense, he said he "canvassed lots and lots of women but no one wanted the job"....Really?!  I could name a few, starting with Yours, Truly.

- And, in a case of citizen watchdogs run amok, the Consumer's Associations (for whom I usually nurture unbridled love), retracted their lawsuit against Mr. Della Valle of Tod's shoes for offering €50 million to restore the Colosseum. 
It was an unprecedented case of corporate or, in this case, personal philanthropy, something sorely missing in European society, and these jokers wanted to block it.  Providing this observer with an extreme case of hives from scratching my forehead in utter disbelief.


* A sham given that he started his new job at the end of November 2011.  Just like Obama before him & the Nobel Peace Prize, since when do we now give award for promises and not for deeds well done?  It also stands to mention that in his last year as President of Italy's MBA University Bocconi, it fell from 28th place to 42nd.  Hoping that'll not be the case for Italy as well... 

Thursday, September 15

Washed up T shirt contest

First, it started out as a seriously misplaced JC Penney t-shirt, which they thought would be so cute for little girls following in Barbie's tiny wedge-heeled footsteps.  The t-shirt that boldly proclaimed:
I'm too pretty for homework -- so my brother has to help me!
click here to see the actual shirt 
Aside from ignoring the obvious, that girls are better at school than boys and now make up 60% of college graduates in the West, let's just say, it was wise for JCPenney to pull the shirt off the shelves.


In Italy instead, where the Italians were the first to adopt rights for women, Nicole Minetti, Silvio Berlusconi's in-house hottie and hooker hooker-upper decided to don a smart shirt of her own.  Liberally translating the old phrase, "There's more to love" she came up with her own:
Without the t-shirt I'm even better        click here for photo
Ahhh...just like I want to see in my government representatives.  And considering with her lofty position in Milan's regional govt she makes more than Barack Obama, you'd think she could have afforded to have the saying cutely done up in embroidery or something, and not just hand-written in magic marker (magic being the operative word).  And people complain about Michelle Obama's bare arms.


HuffPost Comedy came up with their own series of shirts for women in the 21st century, lest people thought we were getting just a bit too sassy & savvy for the men in our midst.


Perhaps Nicole & Co. can take a look at the whole slideshow here & come up with her own line of cute sayings for well-paid escorts.


P.S. As we get geared up to host over 1000 women (and men) at the WIN Conference-Women's Int'l Networking in Rome (Oct 5-8), my professional alter-ego will be live blogging the entire 4-day event (seriously) where we'll be discussing ways to keep it real & empower women, while changing the world, and not just your clothes choices.
Just check out www.winconference.net

Thursday, April 14

Italian Design - Cross-Cultural Style

This week, Milan's fab Salone del Mobile Trade Show opened, to great fanfare and zillions of visitors looking for the next 'hot' thing they can knock off back in their home countries. But, seriously, it's lots of fun - terrific eye appeal - and seriously takes your mind off the economic crunch while you fantasize over that uber-cool eco sofa which would cost you nearly one year's pay just to perch on your pavement.
So, as I was preparing my morning cup of Giovanni, my mind wandered toward Italian design.  That's because I use this funky Alessi 'accendigas' to light my stovetop.
Alessi.it

Pick from www.cyberattic.com
Not far away, and right next to my milk in the fridge, is another bizarre household item - clearly thought up by an American (note it reads, CHEESE) as I'm pretty certain no Italian worth their Parmigiano Reggiano would deign to keep pre-grated cheese (at all), let alone in one of these, ready for shaking on the kitchen table.

But, what's funny about these two items is that, whenever a guest comes to visit, the Americans - once they catch on to Alessi's giving new meaning to 'light my fire', usually suddenly grow wary of getting near the stove.  I've yet to meet an Italian who has so much as given it scant attention.
But open the fridge, the Americans fully expect to find a Leaning Tower on my shelf.  Houses in America are filled to the brim with bobbles & bangles, of untold items looking differently from what they actually are.  And so, you find a football helmet as a toaster, little animals for ear muffs, clock radios disguised as fish tanks...
Italians, not yet fully committed to the Made in China onslaught of useless items to crowd into your homes, in their usual understated approach to controversy, simply pose a question: 
"Did you know you have a leaning tower of Pisa inside your refrigerator?" 

Once I explain its use, I've found however, that they no longer will take meals in my home altogether and they start viewing me with some suspicion, as if they ended up in the protagonist's home in Misery. (And wait til they catch my bread knife, hidden in a faux French baguette!)
Either way, between the two, I seem to get out of doing a lot of cooking & cleaning.

Tuesday, April 12

The Silvio Show - Berlusconi coming soon to a city near you!

These days, our leader of our great nostalgic country seems to be reliving his Lounge Lizard days - Open shirt & Microphone in hand, he's traipsing cross country in a solo act -- piling on the jokes like the beloved Totó - The Prince of Laughter - so people won't notice the holes in his performance as Prime Minister.  For those of you who may have missed his sold-out performances (after all, the Italians love Silvio), here are some of the show highlights:

Lampedusa - once a pristine paradise, now home to thousands of immigrants pouring in from N. Africa
- Silvio, a sound businessman at heart (never mind he's being / has been investigated for his creative finance for years on end) took one look at the island and did what any other tycoon would do:  He tried to purchase a home online.  Obviously taken by the surroundings, he probably figures he needs a new island outpost far from Arcore.  After all, I'm sure there are dozens of pretty young things in amongst the poor throngs just waiting to be 'discovered' at his parties.  
- He has the eye:  Silvio built in the outskirts of Milan, MilanDue & MilanoTre - both wonderful places to live, replete with pools, clubhouses, lots of greenery, large terraces, families.  So, when he went on to say that Lampedusa needed a golf course & casino, you can bet it will probably happen.  The Mayor now says 'No' to the casino, but, seeing that Silvio uses his pads to host the hookers  fine young women he is single-handedly trying to get off the streets and into new positions in government, perhaps the City Officials can come around to his reasoning.  Or, as America's The Daily Beast put it well over a year ago, when Silvio spotted a real political animal in Milano - Nicole Minetti is a sex worker politician...Of course, they got the story wrong - she was his dental hygienist, not his dentist.  See the full gallery here.

Milano - At the awards ceremony honoring the top students working as trainees in the Campus Mentis program

- To the two women: "You've done so well, I feel like inviting you for some Bunga Bunga!"
- To the young man there: "Well, you're cute too, so you can come along as well!"

Fully acknowledging their achievements, in a country experiencing a massive brain drain, and nearly 30% unemployment among students, he said he was at a veritable loss for words -- "Because there isn't time to tell you all my jokes!!!  I even have one on McDonald's!"  After some prodding by the Host (ma perchè mai??!!), he acquiesced, saying he would tell his most "caste joke": 

"An Italian was explaining to a German, how to really 'get' the girl...'First, you take a bottle of champagne, pour it down her front, then suck it off her 'down there', if you get my drift -- To which the German says, 'Sounds great! Will it work with beer too?!!"
Berlusconi then apologized for his stupid joke, saying "It was much better if I had delivered it as it was originally intended."  No one laughed - See for yourself here.

Milano - In court under accusation for 'creative' accounting, including hidden funds, payoffs, and so forth
- To the judge:  "You're the bad guy here."
- To his followers: "Today was a total waste of time."
- Adding his preemptive comment on the upcoming trial for abetting underage prostitutes:  "I'm not paying prostitutes for their services, I'm trying to get them off the streets!  In fact, the €60000 paid to Ruby (he confesses) was so she could open a beauty salon."


Aside from the small detail that Ruby would need to be a licensed practitioner to do so, as one brilliant contributor stated on L'AltroQuotidiano:

"Yeah - just like the poor parish priest, Don Benzi, who made it his life's mission to get the prostitutes off the streets - except that he looked for them himself, and didn't rely on recs from a kind nun, he didn't bring them to his home, but to his qualified institute, and he certainly didn't have Bunga Bunga parties with them, either."

Wednesday, April 6

Advertising Age - Banking Edition

Italians since ancient times have always paid close attention to the care of their bodies - after all, it's the Romans that made virtual palaces of their 'bath houses' replete with all the rituals that made you come out smelling - if not like a rose - at least olive oil & laurel.
So bankers, in their multi-century glut of good advertising gimmicks, have decided to appeal to the beautiful people of the Bel PaeseCredem's ad agency, Republic, who actually admits to having created this pathetic campaign, has peppered Italy's train stations with profiles like hers in a sorry attempt at witticism.  It reads, "My nose knows it's the bank for me."  With the check-up line posted above, I was actually tempted to call the number to see where I could get a nose job and free checkup ('zero spese') along with it.   
Advertising Age:  about a 6 yr. old attempt

Not to be outdone, the Poste Italiane, that beacon of brilliance, has come out with a whole line of (financial) products to entice you to live a beautiful and harmonious life.  Their image?  A line of beauty care creams.  Seeing that at the Post Office you can buy recipe books, pots & pans, and every other service (except actual stamps) known to man, I simply thought they were coming out with their own anti-aging creams - to ward off the effects of time you spend in line there.    
Advertising Age:  23 yrs old / Effectiveness: 0


And, speaking of the Italian Postal Service, here's a little trick to avoid it altogether:  
In Rome, I have discovered right near the Colosseum (on via S. Giovanni in Laterano) a Swiss Post Office.  Years ago, those savvy Swiss spotted a nice opportunity, and opened their first office in Milano (on viale Jenner) as well.  Take your letters & packages there - you'll pay less and you can rest assured your package will arrive.
[click on Swiss Post for link to their facilities].

Saturday, January 15

Buy Made in Italy! Per Favore...

This is a message for you men out there – or, you women who shop for your men.  There is obviously a severe crisis in the mens’ fashion world, and clearly not enough guys are putting down the dough for gorgeous Italian clothes.  It would appear that in these times of economic crisis, way too many guys are shopping at Wal-mart.
How do I know this?  Well, not to judge by the looks of most Americans…but, that certainly would be a mitigating factor…Instead, I’m judging from this week’s Men’s Fashion Shows taking place in Florence – Pitti Uomo.  It seems that companies, or their advertising agencies, simply can’t attract the business.  So, they’ve decided to follow in the foolish footsteps of Diesel [the ones who came out with the Beevis&Butthead tag line, ‘Be Stupid’ to promote their styles – as if adolescents needed any more encouragement] and give us a whole slew of pathetic and positively raunchy campaigns. 
Taken straight out of the Ogilvy annals, ‘If you can’t talk about the product, get people to talk about you’ I offer the crème of the crass crop [I refuse to name the companies, so as not to give them more reason to regurgitate their rancid campaigns]:

-       One company has lined the streets of Florence with dead cadavers, crime scenes, blood, guts and all, along with offering up scenes from the school massacre in Beslan (Russia), where over 400 were murdered, 156 of them children.  Yeah. That’ll truly make me want to rush out and spend my money on ‘clothes to be shot up in’.  In the wake of the Tucson shooting spree, it’s even more tasteless in its timing.
Advertising Age:  about 12 yr. old video gamers – too bad they don’t buy their own clothes.
-       Another has Jesus hanging in agony on the cross, imploring you not to succumb to evil, and help yourself by buying their clothes.  Unless they’re selling togas, this is sheer idiocy (and, as the Italian press emoted, blasphemous in the extreme).  My recommendation?  Try that tactic with Mohammed, and see how cute the public thinks you are.  You better have bomb-proof glass at your Company headquarters.
Advertising Age:  clearly not done by any real agency, I’d give the advert an age of 16, the brainchild of the owner’s up & coming son.
-       And then we have provacateur extraordinaire, enfant terrible, ('Terrible' being the operative word), of the consummate self-serving egomaniac of Benetton fame, Oliviero Toscani.  For his Menswear promo, he’s released a calendar.  Great.  I’m thinking a male version of the Pirelli calendar.  Oh. Wait. No, this one is a series of women’s genitals, month by month.  Certainly not a turn-on for women, and seriously off the mark for the legions of homosexual fashion buyers frequenting the shows.

It will be a dark day when the King of Taste, Giorgio Armani, is no longer with us.  Because if this is a glimpse into the future of fashion, we'll need more than Jesus to help us out.

Monday, January 3

Italy 2010 - The Best & Worst of a Year in Review


Following is my serendipitous selection of the Good-Buono, the Bad & the Ugly-Brutto of Life in Italy 2010.  Feel free to add your own.

milano
buono      Milan’s train station grows up – and starts adding slick services & fancy stores for passengers.
brutto       You’ll have to count on those stores for your water supply…Milan has ripped out all the fountains all around town (you know, the ones from which water flows out all day & night) because people were – gasp! – taking advantage of the freely flowing H2O and using it to wash their cars, while the homeless got cleaned up.
While I’m all for not wasting water in today’s day & age, I’d like someone to please tell me that the clean water isn’t just flowing freely underneath our feet and that shelters now provide showers.

roma
buono      Rome turned into ‘Roma Capitale’ following other capital cities in their pursuit of providing more cohesive tourist services and so on under one umbrella. Add to this a number of free evenings to the major attractions throughout the year (and the Vatican museums deserve a shout out for their night openings as well – and still free on the last Sunday of each month), and the latest announcement -- you get in free on your birthday! (Trust me, I’ll be testing their meddle on the upcoming missing Leap Day & see how the ticket agents react...) 
For now, I'll hold off judgment seeing that the latest free evenings at State-run museums in Rome, were not mentioned anywhere on the Roma capitale nor rome city websites – shame on them.
Jan 1st also marks the day that ‘no more plastic bags’ will be used by stores – large & small – even green grocer market stands.  Not exactly true, as we’ll just be using biodegradable plastic bags.  Hopefully, it will be heavily enforced by the authorities like the hugely successful anti-smoking law.  But so far, I’ve been handed regular plastic bags, but hey, it’s only a few days in…

Activists from Retake Rome finally taking the rampant & ridiculous graffiti into their own hands – and gaining the interest (perhaps by disgracing them into action) of the Mayor's office as well.  But, will they make a long-lasting impression?  Too early to tell.
brutto     January 1st also marks the day that tourists will start paying a tourist tax, with an increase of 1 euro at all museum entrances (not to mention at the hotels) – “To pay for all the terrific services we have in mind to offer.”  As if the 20% VAT on all that isn’t already covered.  I start losing my mind every time I think about this, so, if you want my long-winded opinion on the entire tourist tax scam, click here (or find it under Caveat Emptor on the right hand column on my blog page).

firenze/florence
buono     Turned its Piazza Duomo into a pedestrian area – and it’s wonderful.
brutto      Outlawed eating in that same inviting area and no sitting on the church steps. It's an effort to keep illegal immigrants & the homeless away, but ultimately hurts the millions of tourists who just want to take a break in a breathtaking area.

pompeii
buono      Authorities will be investigating the reasons why none of the dozens of archeologists on site could forecast the felling of the buildings.
brutto       That they fell in the first place.  Besides, the cases will probably take so long, we may never know the reasons why nor prevent it from happening again (Save building a rooftop over the entire place - a solution I'm sure the local Camorra is pushing for...)

napoli/naples
buono       Sell out shows by Saviano, the Gomorrah author both live and in TV audiences and the courage that this man has to name the most well-known secret in Italy.
brutto        That the trash piles up again for all the world to see -- along with the Neopolitans’ pat refusal to recycle, open up dumps, or see to it that those same dumps aren’t run by the mob & toxic waste isn't spilled in their path.

italy
buono        Mrs. Berlusconi finally decided not to ‘stand by her man’ – collecting her pieces and leaving the game.  Her example of walking out of the marriage farce may finally set thousands of cuckholded women and millions of ‘separati in casa’ free (of course, it eases the pain of leaving when you walk out with bags full of your Monopoly money).
brutto         Silvio’s economic plan for the underemployed youth of his time, reiterated throughout the year, “Marry rich.” 

buono        A 3hr. train ride from rome to Milan.
brutto          The price of that train ride.

Thanks for the packages, I can't wait to empty them out (Boxes carry Union labels)
with its foray into America, fiat becomes a strange source of pride for all & sundry, while taking on the unions, who have done their fare share of damage to Italy’s productivity.  and, continuing to give us colorful little 500s, they keep the love alive…

the advent of consumer’s associations. finally exercising their muscle, and getting results – on class action suits and otherwise. go to their websites to see who they’re going after.

many young women being the pride of Italy and winning competitions in fencing, tennis and swimming, among others.

prosecco outsells champagne this holiday season

brutto
Losing in the world cup along with their display of fakery on the pitch was a double-header of disgrace.

Young women who want to be showgirls or politicians (or both!) fueling the macho- man legacy and a sad statement for the future of Italy.

Aquila still in piles of rubble. But, I’m not one to complain – Ground Zero is still an open pit and New Orleans has not returned to its former self.

the last word

Blue mozzarella & fuchsia ricotta – Colorful rainbows aside, why are we importing cheeses from Germany?  Talk about a carbon footprint!

An Italian going up into outer space – for 6 months, no less.

Arrest & sequester of hundreds of mafia men & their properties

Movies set in Italy, The American, The Tourist, Eat-Pray-Love


What did you love or hate about events in Italy this year?

Sunday, December 5

Driving in Italy? How many points for a pedestrian?

One of my pet theories - that Naples has some of the best drivers & Milano the worst - has proved true.  Well, almost.  Anyone who has ever rented a car and driven through Naples will tell you, it's an absolute chaotic mess - something not dissimilar to little amoebas in a petri dish knocking around.  But look more closely: those cars that swing at you from every direction, making you appear like a character from the Wacky Races (you know, where the car suddenly sprouts huge springs to boost you above the cars so you can pass them all without incident), rarely ever actually hit each other. [with the exception of them hitting you, so you pull over, and while you're busy discussing, their buddy is depriving you of all your luggage & your purse].


Take a trip to Milan, and fender benders are par for the course.  Personally, I think it's because the roads are so chaotic in Naples, no one has time to ungrip the wheel in order to send text messages; while in stand-still Milano, people don't insomuch drive while talking on the phone, they talk on the phone while they happen to be absent-mindedly driving.
But don't take my word for it: just ask the pedestrians.
The stats were just released on the number of deaths by drivers - and, as the Amici della Polizia Stradale (they have friends?) reported, 'It's a combat zone out there.'  In 2009, there were 4725 victims out there, up 2 points from 2008.  And, just to give you some bare numbers, this translates into 7.859 deaths since 2000 and 205.432 injured - one third of them while walking across those white crosswalks (or hopelessly faded ones, I'm sure).
So, where should you 'cross with (grande) care?'  Distressing at least to this Roman, Lazio takes the lead (106 victims), 2/3 of the victims in Rome alone, followed by Milan's Lombardy region (99) and Emilia Romagna at 67 (very few of those coming from the city of Bologna itself-so go figure).
And, where is it wise to walk?  Of course, Valle d'Aosta - as close to Switzerland as one can get (2 victims, but few inhabitants too), Molise (3) (if you knew where the heck it even was on a map), and Verona & Bari - really?! (if you've ever driven around Bari you'd understand my surprise) at zero - But here, our Amici make an exception: provided the victims were actually fully accounted for.  Palermo & Naples a respectful 13 & 14 casualties.

Oh-And my theory?  Neapolitans know how to avoid all & sundry while they maniacally dart in & out of traffic -- riding on sidewalks if they have to, only to suddenly squeeze in before cutting down that family of four - also on the sidewalk and perched at 60 km/hour on a Vespa.  In Milan, Trevor got run over by a car frozen in traffic at a standstill.  I rest my case.
The Milanese take any other moving object as a target. Instead of playing squash, it's how they get their nervous energy out.  But, while Naples may be a paradise for pedestrians, take my advice: drive there at your own peril.

Real Time Update to this Post:
On Dec 9th, the State Court of Appeals (in Naples, no less) ruled that if you, the pedestrian, hesitates in your approach to the (clearly faded) white lines, seeing that as you're crossing, a car is shooting at you at 80km/hr, it's your fault if you're run over.
After all, these are the same guys who said if you're raped while wearing jeans, it's clearly consensual [ignoring the obvious that even a guy would take his jeans off if he had a knife to his throat].

Tuesday, May 25

Travel Tuesday Special - Italy May Activities Not to Miss!

With the (sudden and unexpected) onslaught of summer, my thoughts have turned to playtime - and it seems that the Italians can't wait for the insane amount of wonderful summer activities to get underway.  So, here's a sneak preview:

Florence hosts its first-ever Gelato Festival - now that's something icecream about!   may 28-31


Visitors to Florence will find the entire city turned into one big outdoor gelateria, divided democratically into traditional & industrial variations.
My sister says that Florence has the best gelato in the boot, so, anyone who is fortunate enough to be there at this time really lucks (or licks!) out.
Add to this the (real) closing of the streets all around the Duomo (no traffic at all compared to other pedestrian zones) and, you're taken back to the 1950s when the central piazza was filled with people and plants.  The hosts are even planning an open-air ice-cream themed dinner.
Now - how they're going to get this to jive with the city ordinance of 'no loitering' - 'no eating' around those parts is another question...But, Buon Appetito!
check out ItalyMag for details

Not to be outdone in new groovy cultural initiatives, Rome is unearthing their treasures in year 2 of the Roma Nascosta initiative.  If I recall from last year, there was no idea on the posters how to sign up and what monuments you could visit - so the entire thing remained very nascosta (hidden) -- note website and details on said poster, a text book case of publicity in Italy.
This year, they've come up with a calendar and a way to make a reservation (book fast!) and if you dig deeper, you may even find the info in English.

And, to know more about things happening in Rome, we suggest you go to InRomeNow - who publishes a listing of all the happenings in town monthly.

And, in early June, if you're in Milan, you can enjoy all the movies from the Cannes Film Festival - the annual event which makes living in Milan the rest of the year endurable.  Turns out that Rome also does the Cannes film festival redux, so now there's something more to cheer about!

Monday, May 10

Inter-Milan - Not just between us



I love soccer tremendously, but something I am not very proud of is the fact that I have never once entered into an Italian soccer stadium, nor do I follow the sport.  To think I've been in Italy on the eve of winning many a World Cup is even more distressing.  But, nonetheless, I've always liked the sport for its democracy - with players, you need not look like the Incredible Hulk to play -- all it took was sheer talent.  
But, the democracy of the sport goes further than that.  The Economist once quipped, it's pretty much the only business in which goods (the players) move absolutely freely (I imagine other than the drug trade) -- So much so, you will undoubtedly find a rainbow coalition of teams and players moving round without impediments of needless regulations found in other industries.
So freely, in fact, that I was stunned to read a complaint by someone in Italy who remarked that 
'it's strange to find so many Italians rooting for Inter Milan, when there's not a single Italian in the whole lot.'  
So, I did a bit of investigating, and actually, that statement is not 100% correct, but rather, 75%.
The SkySports roster gives the names of each of the players, but not their nationalities.  But judging by the names, it looks as though if each team member went back to his place of origin as they do in one of their tournaments, Inter Milan for one would be hard-pressed to cobble together 11 players on the field:


Inter Milan Squad List                    
Goalkeeper
Julio Cesar     
Francesco Toldo 
Paolo Orlandoni
 
Defender
Cristian Chivu 
Maicon           
Davide Santon            
Javier Zanetti   (Argentinian)
Marco Materazzi
Ivan Cordoba  
Walter Samuel            
Giulio Donati
Lucio (Brazilian)

Midfielder
Rene Krhin     
Esteban Cambiasso      
Wesley Sneijder          
Ricardo Quaresma       
Lorenzo Crisetig                                               
Sulley Muntari            
Mancini (Brasil?)
Sebastian Carlsen                                               
Patrick Vieira  
Thiago Motta  
Alen Stevanovic      
Dejan Stankovic        
McDonald Mariga            
 
Striker
Samuel Eto'o  
Diego Milito   
Marko Arnautovic      
Mario Balotelli            
Goran Pandev
Denis Alibec                                       
David Suazo    

But, you're certain that all these guys can in the very least rely upon a bona fide Italian D.O.C. Manager.  Well, check that label again. Manager Josè Mourinho is Portughese.  
So, is it not just the researchers that are fleeing the country in a brain drain?  Do we also have a sprain drain?